Wild Coast Magazine / Spring 08

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The sound was unmistakable.

Just a few hundred metres separated us from our launch site off Lochside Drive when we heard a rush of air – an oboe-like whoosh of breath, expelled the way only a killer whale can. We turned our kayaks in the direction of the sound and waited, and moments later we were greeted to fins rising from the water, the sure sign of a pod of killer whales bearing down on us.

Normally when we enjoy this type of scene, we’re alone – just us, our kayaks and the killer whales. But today was different. Being close to the Sidney waterfront, a crowd of strollers, hikers, joggers and families were already there, enjoying the beach and the ocean views. A few of the orcas were in a playful mood and breached, slapping down on their backs after jumping clear of the water. Our own enthusiasm for this unexpected show was mirrored by the people lining the shore; a chorus of cheers roared from the crowd with each new jump.

Passing cars pulled off Lochside Drive to watch. That perhaps more than anything mirrored the beauty of Sidney at that particular moment: there aren’t many communities where a traffic jam can be caused by a passing pod of killer whales.

No wonder Sidney has gained a reputation for being one of the most picturesque communities in British Columbia. Credit the waterfront. With numerous trails, parks and beach accesses, Sidney’s pleasant nature is intrinsically tied to the ocean.

It doesn’t hurt that Sidney is a key gateway to the ocean. It is just a skip away from the Swartz Bay ferry terminal (the main route between Vancouver and Victoria) plus home to the Washington State ferry service between Sidney and Anacortes.

Marinas line the surrounding coves and kayakers use it as a launch to head to the surrounding islands, many of which are protected within the Gulf Islands National Park. Boaters use the busy ramp at Tulista Park, and even hikers can get out on the water by way of the foot ferry to Sidney Island. The park at Sidney Spit, a portion of the national park, offers trails, a sprawling family-friendly sand beach, wildlife (particularly birds such as great blue herons), trails and camping.

But oddly, the most enjoyed portion of Sidney has little to do with water. Beacon Avenue is the central thoroughfare for the town, with numerous delicatessens, cafés, quaint shops and an unusually high percentage of bookstores.

Books? Of course! Sidney is known as the city of books, and it’s a fitting attraction for a town that works as hard to integrate pedestrians into the downtown as it does cars. Books and mochas never fit so well together. The result is one of the most dynamic downtowns on Vancouver Island. When other urban centres are falling victim to sprawling strip malls, Sidney’s downtown is thriving.

Probably most surprising about Sidney is it’s diminutive size. While the population of Vancouver Island has topped 700,000, Sidney is home to only about 12,000 residents. But like most other island communities, the town is enjoying a wave of development, much of it aimed towards the waterfront. But while new condos are springing to life, don’t make the mistake of thinking these are being built at the expense of the waterfront. Rather, the seawall has gone through numerous recent improvements, including new park space, trails, benches, green areas and even friendly bronze sculptures of characters on park benches.

In particular, Eastview Park was rebuilt in 2007, with new benches, picnic tables, a brick walkway and extensive new gardens. Tulista Park, meanwhile, was upgraded with a scooter-friendly waterfront walkway.

Continuing north, Seaport Park weaves its way between the Sidney waterfront and various restaurants, a pub and a gallery with benches, gardens, grass and even a dog “comfort station.”

While most visitors will be drawn to the ocean (and understandably so), a scattering of several dozen parks offers another way to spend time in the town. Consider Raey Creek Park, with its peaceful 20-minute hike through a forest and over footbridges. Or Melville Park with its stone bridge, creek, grassy clearings and large trees.

Bird lovers will have special reason to enjoy Sidney, particularly along the water. Sidney Channel, which runs between Sidney and nearby James Island, is one of British Columbia’s key bird areas, attracting huge numbers of Brandts cormorant, mew gulls and pigeon guillemot. Other denizens are black oystercatcher, marbled murrelet, great blue heron, auklets and other shorebirds, seaducks, grebes and loons.

Both Roberts Bay and Tsehum Harbour are bird sanctuaries.

In all, Sidney is remarkable for a seemingly ideal mix of housing, businesses and natural settings.

Getting here:
The Town of Sidney is 26 km north of Victoria along the Patricia Bay Highway (Highway 17). The main intersection is Beacon Avenue, although sightseers may prefer to drive along Lochside Drive into town for the scenery (and maybe even a killer whale sighting). Turn east at the McTavish Road or Mount Newton Cross Road intersections, then north at Lochside to parallel the waterfront.

What to do:

Cycling: The Lochside Trail runs through Sidney, offering a chance to cycle from downtown Victoria to Swartz Bay. The trail presents a great way for urban dwellers to daytrip to Sidney. For more on the trail, visit www.crd.bc.ca/parks/lochside/index.htm.
Hiking: Sidney Spit, part of the Gulf Islands National Park, offers an exceptional way to mix a water taxi ride and trails. Visit www.pc.gc.ca/pn-np/bc/gulf/index_e.asp.
Camping: Overnight camping is possibly on Sidney Island (see above), while McDonald Campground just north of Sidney is a key staging ground for explorations of the Gulf Islands National Park (Note it is only open seasonally).
Kayaking: Sidney is the perfect gateway to Gulf Islands National Park destinations such as Sidney Spit, D’Arcy Island, Rum Island or, farther afield, Portland Island and Bedwell Harbour. All offer camping opportunities. Sidney Spit makes an ideal day trip due to its beautiful sand beaches.
Other options: If your activity level favours lattés, Beacon Avenue offers the perfect place to stroll, shop and dine. A vibrant and active downtown has to be the envy of just about every other small town in BC.

Copyright Wild Coast Magazine

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