Wild Coast Magazine: Kookjai Trail

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Wild Coast Magazine / Spring 08

Download a PDF version of the article here. Photo of view from Comox Glacier courtesy Ken Rodonets.

Reaching the Comox Glacier used to be a lot tougher. Before the early 1960s when logging roads finally pushed into the area, hikers had to catch a ride on a steamboat service down Comox Lake, a break provided by a logging company with a floating camp at Cruikshank River. From there the trip entailed a portage and paddle across Willemar and Forbush lakes, then a steep hike up a ridge towards Kookjai Mountain.

After logging roads pushed through the region in the early 1960s, the favoured route became the Comox Glacier Trail. But plans by TimberWest to sell the land at the base of the trail have put the future of that route in limbo.

Fortunately a newer alternative exists by way of Kookjai Mountain. The Comox District Mountaineering Club cleared most of the route in 2003, with more work through a newer cutblock at the lower elevation taking place in 2007.

The route is now remarkably well cleared and marked, and is blessed with a more gentle topography than the original Comox Glacier Trail.

Access is likely to remain better as well. The final three kilometres of the Comox Glacier road is ditched, and will likely wash out, requiring a three-kilometre hike to the trailhead in the next year or two.

The Kookjai Trail, on the other hand, is likely to remain passable up to Cougar Lake for many years to come.

If the glacier is your goal, the Kookjai route is longer but avoids the toughest climbing past Frog Pond and at Lone Tree Pass.
Daytrippers, on the other hand, will likely enjoy the relatively simple ascent to the alpine level. And once on the ridge at Kookjai, reaching the peak is a fairly easy walk in the alpine park. Expect a multitude of lakes, bogs, alpine meadows and, for most of the year, lots of snow.

Things are busiest in August, when most visitors arrive to the top of Kookjai – about 100 each year. So you might see someone else on the ridge when you hike here. But don’t count on it.

What to expect: The first portion of the trail is almost entirely uphill, from an elevation of about 460 metres at the roadside to about 1,200 metres at the Kookjai ridge. While physically demanding, the first ridge and some excellent viewpoints are achievable as a day trip by moderate fitness levels. Once on the ridge, there are some excellent places to explore, with marginal elevation gains and losses. It is easy to become disoriented on the ridge, though, and lose the trail back down. A GPS is recommended.
The ridge is also suitable for camping at numerous locations. A trip to the glacier is best planned as a three-day outing, with the middle day spent exploring the glacier. Be prepared for snow even in August.

How to get here: The best access is from Cumberland. From the Island Highway at Courtenay/Comox, take the main exit east to Cumberland. Turn right at the gas station, following it to Comox Lake Main. Take that left (east) past Comox Lake dam. The road beyond the dam is private logging road, with restricted access by TimberWest officially from 6 a.m. to 6 p.m. seven days a week.

An alternative route is from Port Alberni. Take Highway 4 west through Port Alberni, turning northwest on Beaver Creek Road just west of the Somass River bridge. Follow it as it curves north and turns into Somers Road. Near the end of Somers Road is the Comox Lake Main to your left. Look for a wooden ‘Comox Main’ sign nailed to a tree near the turnoff. Keep to the main route north and you should be fine. The danger is being diverted into Elsie Lake. Once you near Comox Lake the road will deteriorate; four-wheel drive is recommended. Near the lake is a gate. It is usually open but may be closed at any time. This could put a quick end to your trip from this direction.

On either route turn west off the Comox Lake Main at the Cruikshank Main (the junction is listed as GPS waypoint ‘A’ in the adjoining chart and on the map on page 16). The Cruikshank Main begins just south of the largest bridge on the Comox Lake Main – an unmistakable landmark. Follow the main just over 3 kilometres to the junction with South Main (B). Turn left. Follow it about 5.5 km south to the junction with the road leading to the Comox Glacier Trail (C). A small yellow sign should be visible indicating the Comox Glacier Trail. Washouts could mean beginning a hike on that trail from near this location soon.

To reach the Kookjai Trail, continue south from the turnoff for the Comox Glacier Trail and continue for 2 kilometres until past Cougar Lake. Stop where the road takes a sharp turn east. Park at the turn, and look for a trail leading up a small rock knoll. If you find the commemorative plaque on the knoll you’re at the trailhead (D).

The route: From the knoll the trail should lead through some scrub to an old logging road. Follow that, watching for where the trail diverges. The lower portion of the trail passes through a new clearcut that should be marked and passable, but as it grows up this may be a difficult section to follow. Once in the forest the trail rises steadily to the ridge and eventually the Kookjai summit (1). Once on the ridge the trail is simply a thin line marked by occasional stone cairns and ribbons, with most indications easily obscured by snow; take care not to get lost. The route continues west to a summit the Comox District Mountaineering Club is hoping to have named Mount Horbury. This is an ideal camping area, as it is about seven hours from the trailhead. West of Mount Horbury the trail drops to 1,240 m elevation into a gulley and follows a ridge and a game trail. Waypoints 3-5 will help you navigate this stretch.

(Please note that Mount Horbury was misnamed Hornsby in the print edition.)

The trail then follows a ridge to the top of Black Cat Mountain at 1,610 metres (6), then drops into Lone Tree Pass to 1,520 m (7). From there a beaten path leads to the south summit of the glacier at 1,850 m (8). You can then walk across the snow to the north summit to the survey tripod in about 40 minutes (9). It’s about five hours from the camp at Hornsby to the glacier.

Other interesting stuff: If you arrive too late to make the trail, nearby camping is possible at Cougar and Willemar lakes. Both are popular for trout fishing, though canoeists may enjoy the portage to Forbush Lake.

GPS waypoints:
A. Cruikshank Main junction 10U 0340828E 5493942N
B. South Main junction 10U 0337915E 5493778N
C. Comox Glacier Trail turnoff 10U 0337093E 5488798W
D. Kookjai trailhead 10U 0337785E 5486900N
1. Kookjai Mountain summit 10U 0334262E 5488063N
2. Hornsby campsite 10U 0332207E 5487637N
3. Hornsby-Black Cat gully 10U 0331473E 5487630N
4. Bottom of ridge 10U 0331319E 5487967N
5. Stay right to follow game trail 10U 0331204E 5488034N
6. Black Cat summit 10U 0330505E 5489284N
7. Lone Tree Pass 10U 0330427E 5489780N
8. Comox Glacier south summit 10U 0330182E 5490456N
9. Comox Glacier north summit 10U 0328988E 5491527N

Copyright Wild Coast Magazine

Download a PDF version of the article here.



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			Kookjai: the back door to Comox Glacier Wild Coast Magazine / Spring 08 Download a PDF version of the article here. Photo of view from Comox Glacier courtesy Ken Rodonets. Reaching the Comox Glacier used to be a lot tougher. Before the early 1960s when logging roads finally pushed into the area, hikers had to catch a ride on a steamboat service down Comox Lake, a break provided by a logging company with a floating camp at Cruikshank River. From there the trip entailed a portage and paddle across Willemar and Forbush lakes, then a steep hike up a ridge towards Kookjai Mountain. After logging roads pushed through the region in the early 1960s, the favoured route became the Comox Glacier Trail. But plans by TimberWest to sell the land at the base of the trail have put the future of that route in limbo. Fortunately a newer alternative exists by way of Kookjai Mountain. The Comox District Mountaineering Club cleared most of the route in 2003, with more work through a newer cutblock at the lower elevation taking place in 2007. The route is now remarkably well cleared and marked, and is blessed with a more gentle topography than the original Comox Glacier Trail. Access is likely to remain better as well. The final three kilometres of the Comox Glacier road is ditched, and will likely wash out, requiring a three-kilometre hike to the trailhead in the next year or two. The Kookjai Trail, on the other hand, is likely to remain passable up to Cougar Lake for many years to come. If the glacier is your goal, the Kookjai route is longer but avoids the toughest climbing past Frog Pond and at Lone Tree Pass. Daytrippers, on the other hand, will likely enjoy the relatively simple ascent to the alpine level. And once on the ridge at Kookjai, reaching the peak is a fairly easy walk in the alpine park. Expect a multitude of lakes, bogs, alpine meadows and, for most of the year, lots of snow. Things are busiest in August, when most visitors arrive to the top of Kookjai – about 100 each year. So you might see someone else on the ridge when you hike here. But don’t count on it. What to expect: The first portion of the trail is almost entirely uphill, from an elevation of about 460 metres at the roadside to about 1,200 metres at the Kookjai ridge. While physically demanding, the first ridge and some excellent viewpoints are achievable as a day trip by moderate fitness levels. Once on the ridge, there are some excellent places to explore, with marginal elevation gains and losses. It is easy to become disoriented on the ridge, though, and lose the trail back down. A GPS is recommended. The ridge is also suitable for camping at numerous locations. A trip to the glacier is best planned as a three-day outing, with the middle day spent exploring the glacier. Be prepared for snow even in August. How to get here: The best access is from Cumberland. From the Island Highway at Courtenay/Comox, take the main exit east to Cumberland. Turn right at the gas station, following it to Comox Lake Main. Take that left (east) past Comox Lake dam. The road beyond the dam is private logging road, with restricted access by TimberWest officially from 6 a.m. to 6 p.m. seven days a week. An alternative route is from Port Alberni. Take Highway 4 west through Port Alberni, turning northwest on Beaver Creek Road just west of the Somass River bridge. Follow it as it curves north and turns into Somers Road. Near the end of Somers Road is the Comox Lake Main to your left. Look for a wooden ‘Comox Main’ sign nailed to a tree near the turnoff. Keep to the main route north and you should be fine. The danger is being diverted into Elsie Lake. Once you near Comox Lake the road will deteriorate; four-wheel drive is recommended. Near the lake is a gate. It is usually open but may be closed at any time. This could put a quick end to your trip from this direction. On either route turn west off the Comox Lake Main at the Cruikshank Main (the junction is listed as GPS waypoint ‘A’ in the adjoining chart and on the map on page 16). The Cruikshank Main begins just south of the largest bridge on the Comox Lake Main – an unmistakable landmark. Follow the main just over 3 kilometres to the junction with South Main (B). Turn left. Follow it about 5.5 km south to the junction with the road leading to the Comox Glacier Trail (C). A small yellow sign should be visible indicating the Comox Glacier Trail. Washouts could mean beginning a hike on that trail from near this location soon. To reach the Kookjai Trail, continue south from the turnoff for the Comox Glacier Trail and continue for 2 kilometres until past Cougar Lake. Stop where the road takes a sharp turn east. Park at the turn, and look for a trail leading up a small rock knoll. If you find the commemorative plaque on the knoll you’re at the trailhead (D). The route: From the knoll the trail should lead through some scrub to an old logging road. Follow that, watching for where the trail diverges. The lower portion of the trail passes through a new clearcut that should be marked and passable, but as it grows up this may be a difficult section to follow. Once in the forest the trail rises steadily to the ridge and eventually the Kookjai summit (1). Once on the ridge the trail is simply a thin line marked by occasional stone cairns and ribbons, with most indications easily obscured by snow; take care not to get lost. The route continues west to a summit the Comox District Mountaineering Club is hoping to have named Mount Horbury. This is an ideal camping area, as it is about seven hours from the trailhead. West of Mount Horbury the trail drops to 1,240 m elevation into a gulley and follows a ridge and a game trail. Waypoints 3-5 will help you navigate this stretch. (Please note that Mount Horbury was misnamed Hornsby in the print edition.) The trail then follows a ridge to the top of Black Cat Mountain at 1,610 metres (6), then drops into Lone Tree Pass to 1,520 m (7). From there a beaten path leads to the south summit of the glacier at 1,850 m (8). You can then walk across the snow to the north summit to the survey tripod in about 40 minutes (9). It’s about five hours from the camp at Hornsby to the glacier. Other interesting stuff: If you arrive too late to make the trail, nearby camping is possible at Cougar and Willemar lakes. Both are popular for trout fishing, though canoeists may enjoy the portage to Forbush Lake. GPS waypoints: A. Cruikshank Main junction 10U 0340828E 5493942N B. South Main junction 10U 0337915E 5493778N C. Comox Glacier Trail turnoff 10U 0337093E 5488798W D. Kookjai trailhead 10U 0337785E 5486900N 1. Kookjai Mountain summit 10U 0334262E 5488063N 2. Hornsby campsite 10U 0332207E 5487637N 3. Hornsby-Black Cat gully 10U 0331473E 5487630N 4. Bottom of ridge 10U 0331319E 5487967N 5. Stay right to follow game trail 10U 0331204E 5488034N 6. Black Cat summit 10U 0330505E 5489284N 7. Lone Tree Pass 10U 0330427E 5489780N 8. Comox Glacier south summit 10U 0330182E 5490456N 9. Comox Glacier north summit 10U 0328988E 5491527N Copyright Wild Coast Magazine Download a PDF version of the article here.



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