Wild Coast Magazine: Paddling Clayoquot Arm

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Wild Coast Magazine / Spring 08

Download a PDF version of the article here.

We couldn’t have asked for a more perfect day.

To be honest, we had stopped expecting good weather by the time this trip rolled around. It was late October by now, and 2007 will be remembered (by us at least) as a grim summer with few days of sun.

So when a long-planned fall trip to Tofino coincided with beautiful weather, we decided to load up the kayaks and head off up Clayoquot Arm.

Imagine our surprise when we had not only bright sunshine to start the day but calm winds. A taste of the summer missed.

Most paddlers tend to head off to places like Vargas and Flores islands when visiting Clayoquot Sound. Nothing wrong with that, of course. But there’s also Vancouver Island’s largest lake to remember in Clayoquot: Kennedy Lake.

In the end Clayoquot Arm made for a perfect day-trip. We set out on calm water, meandered through small island clusters, marvelled at the chiselled granite cliffs lining the shore and stopped for lunch at the mouth of Clayoquot River. Our hope was to follow a trail to Clayoquot Lake, but the trailhead was obscured and after an hour or so of pressing into the bush following false leads, we decided to head back to the kayaks.

(The trail has been flagged, but someone has a habit of removing the taping. So the secret remains safe.)

In the end we were doubly lucky, as the winds that normally build throughout the day stayed away, so we paddled back in conditions as calm as when we left. Who would have thought an October outing would beat the best weather of an entire summer?

What to expect: The arm has a few attractions that set it apart from more run-of-the-mill lakes. One is the plethora of interesting little islands to explore. Only Agnes Island to the south is named. The rest are simply little undisturbed gems, likely to remain so given the rough shoreline that tends to thwart attempts to visit.

Another endearing feature is the wonderfully rugged shoreline, the type that you tend to find on more exposed stretches of open coast, not in a protected lake. The granite outcrops are part of the appeal, but the trade-off is few beaches. Expect a better chance of landing sites when the water level drops later in the summer.

The mountainous backdrop helps keep views interesting. The Muriel Range is the prominent backdrop, while the larger peaks of Clayoquot Plateau Provincial Park tend to come into view only near the north end of the lake.

Once at the mouth of Clayoquot River you can explore the estuary or stop for a break on one of the gravel bars.

As is often the case on lakes, wind can funnel over the water, creating choppy conditions. The prevailing weather pattern is lower winds in the morning and higher winds in the afternoon, so don’t expect the serene morning conditions to last throughout the day. This usually means doing most paddling in the morning.

How to get here: If you follow the twisting two-lane portion of Highway 4 west of Port Alberni it will eventually border Kennedy Lake before heading to the Tofino-Ucluelet junction. About 1.6 km before the junction, or about 4.5 km past the turnoff for an often-overlooked branch of Pacific Rim National Park called Swim Beach, you’ll cross the first of two Lost Shoe Creek bridges. Just southwest of the first bridge is the turn for West Main.

West Main is an active logging road, so it’s best traveled on weekends or after hours. It’s definitely the best route to Clayoquot Arm, though, as the alternative from Tofino through the landfill turnoff leads across more potholes than road.
Not that the final stretch is much better along West Main. Stay on the main for about 12 km, until you’re past the Kennedy River bridge. Not long after the Kennedy River you’ll find a rough T-intersection to your right (the east). Follow it over potholes for a few hundred metres. You’ll first find a parking lot to your left and on your right a boardwalk disappearing into the woods. The boardwalk leads through some beautiful old-growth with a couple of stunning old monster trees to end at a fantastic little beach protected as part of the Clayoquot Arm recreation site.

(The beach is meant for day use, but camping is popular here, the main reason being the wonderful sand beach. Expect it to be busy during the summer season, with parties likely.)

Drive past the boardwalk and the road ends at the Clayoquot Arm bridge, thanks to boulders that block the bridge. Here you’ll find another beach, a boat launch and a parking area. Because the recreation site is not hosted or regulated, the parking lot and beach are often used for drive-in camping. And it can be packed to overflow during the peak season.
Once on the water though, the crowds will quickly evaporate. Clayoquot Arm extends north, deep into a region protected in large part by Clayoquot Arm Provincial Park. This makes it largely pristine, with the exception being visible logging on some neighbouring hills.

Copyright Wild Coast Magazine

Download a PDF version of the article here.



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			The long arm of Clayoquot Sound Wild Coast Magazine / Spring 08 Download a PDF version of the article here. We couldn’t have asked for a more perfect day. To be honest, we had stopped expecting good weather by the time this trip rolled around. It was late October by now, and 2007 will be remembered (by us at least) as a grim summer with few days of sun. So when a long-planned fall trip to Tofino coincided with beautiful weather, we decided to load up the kayaks and head off up Clayoquot Arm. Imagine our surprise when we had not only bright sunshine to start the day but calm winds. A taste of the summer missed. Most paddlers tend to head off to places like Vargas and Flores islands when visiting Clayoquot Sound. Nothing wrong with that, of course. But there’s also Vancouver Island’s largest lake to remember in Clayoquot: Kennedy Lake. In the end Clayoquot Arm made for a perfect day-trip. We set out on calm water, meandered through small island clusters, marvelled at the chiselled granite cliffs lining the shore and stopped for lunch at the mouth of Clayoquot River. Our hope was to follow a trail to Clayoquot Lake, but the trailhead was obscured and after an hour or so of pressing into the bush following false leads, we decided to head back to the kayaks. (The trail has been flagged, but someone has a habit of removing the taping. So the secret remains safe.) In the end we were doubly lucky, as the winds that normally build throughout the day stayed away, so we paddled back in conditions as calm as when we left. Who would have thought an October outing would beat the best weather of an entire summer? What to expect: The arm has a few attractions that set it apart from more run-of-the-mill lakes. One is the plethora of interesting little islands to explore. Only Agnes Island to the south is named. The rest are simply little undisturbed gems, likely to remain so given the rough shoreline that tends to thwart attempts to visit. Another endearing feature is the wonderfully rugged shoreline, the type that you tend to find on more exposed stretches of open coast, not in a protected lake. The granite outcrops are part of the appeal, but the trade-off is few beaches. Expect a better chance of landing sites when the water level drops later in the summer. The mountainous backdrop helps keep views interesting. The Muriel Range is the prominent backdrop, while the larger peaks of Clayoquot Plateau Provincial Park tend to come into view only near the north end of the lake. Once at the mouth of Clayoquot River you can explore the estuary or stop for a break on one of the gravel bars. As is often the case on lakes, wind can funnel over the water, creating choppy conditions. The prevailing weather pattern is lower winds in the morning and higher winds in the afternoon, so don’t expect the serene morning conditions to last throughout the day. This usually means doing most paddling in the morning. How to get here: If you follow the twisting two-lane portion of Highway 4 west of Port Alberni it will eventually border Kennedy Lake before heading to the Tofino-Ucluelet junction. About 1.6 km before the junction, or about 4.5 km past the turnoff for an often-overlooked branch of Pacific Rim National Park called Swim Beach, you’ll cross the first of two Lost Shoe Creek bridges. Just southwest of the first bridge is the turn for West Main. West Main is an active logging road, so it’s best traveled on weekends or after hours. It’s definitely the best route to Clayoquot Arm, though, as the alternative from Tofino through the landfill turnoff leads across more potholes than road. Not that the final stretch is much better along West Main. Stay on the main for about 12 km, until you’re past the Kennedy River bridge. Not long after the Kennedy River you’ll find a rough T-intersection to your right (the east). Follow it over potholes for a few hundred metres. You’ll first find a parking lot to your left and on your right a boardwalk disappearing into the woods. The boardwalk leads through some beautiful old-growth with a couple of stunning old monster trees to end at a fantastic little beach protected as part of the Clayoquot Arm recreation site. (The beach is meant for day use, but camping is popular here, the main reason being the wonderful sand beach. Expect it to be busy during the summer season, with parties likely.) Drive past the boardwalk and the road ends at the Clayoquot Arm bridge, thanks to boulders that block the bridge. Here you’ll find another beach, a boat launch and a parking area. Because the recreation site is not hosted or regulated, the parking lot and beach are often used for drive-in camping. And it can be packed to overflow during the peak season. Once on the water though, the crowds will quickly evaporate. Clayoquot Arm extends north, deep into a region protected in large part by Clayoquot Arm Provincial Park. This makes it largely pristine, with the exception being visible logging on some neighbouring hills. Copyright Wild Coast Magazine Download a PDF version of the article here.



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