Wild Coast Magazine's North Coast Trail pages: North Coast Trail versus West Coast Trail

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Wild Coast Magazine, Spring 2008

Download the PDF version of this article and the North Coast Trail by Paddle article here.

Many people are predicting the North Coast Trail will rival the West Coast Trail as the best hike on the BC coast. Many are predicting it will be better. So how does it compare?

Scenery: Both trails offer different but compelling views of a rugged and wild terrain. A slight thumbs up to the North Coast Trail for the better selection of sprawling sand beaches; a slight thumbs up to the West Coast Trail for the scene-setting roar of surf and greater diversity of features.

Difficulty: Say what you will about the trail aids on the West Coast Trail, you’ll likely appreciate them once you hit the more difficult sections of the North Coast Trail. The many steep slopes and scrambles will be highly demanding for people wearing full packs. Consider the North Coast Trail about as raw as you can get.

Time: Both trails are comparable, with the normal time to complete the West Coast Trail about five days. For those who have already done the West Coast Trail, plan for an extra day to finish the North Coast Trail.

Overall appeal: The isolation and exotic nature of the North Coast Trail give it the slight edge. Other advantages are no crowds and no reservation system. The tradeoff is a wild and difficult trek. You won’t have patrols or emergency evacuation points. Be warned the North Coast Trail is now what the West Coast Trail was 20 to 30 years ago – that being a destination best suited to the most hardy and independent hikers. Expect a trip at the limits of the physical demands of most visitors. For those who finish it, expect to prefer it to the West Coast Trail – once the wounds heal.

Bonus article: Not included in the magazine version:

By paddle or by foot?

Kayaking has the obvious advantage of the ability to stow more gear while requiring you to carry less weight when hiking.

The trick is getting there. If the wind goes against you going up Goletas Channel (which is likely), it may take days to paddle to the trailhead from Port Hardy. I’ve hunkered down many times along this stretch of coast waiting for a break in the wind. Travel early before the day’s wind rises, and make contingencies to be off the water to avoid the worst as it grows throughout the day. The problem is camping pullouts are few and far between west of Songhees Creek to Shushartie Bay. A water taxi to Shushartie Bay would be a real time-saver to ensure you get to see the best of the coast.

The Tatnall Reefs west of Jepther Point present another obstacle. Strong currents combined with wind waves can mean tumultuous conditions. It pays to wait for slack tide to cross this stretch.

Once west of Cape Sutil you are in exposed coastal waters. This can mean swell and surf. With numerous offshore rocks and reefs, conditions can be dangerous. Waves can break unexpectedly on these, a situation that could be fatal.
Otherwise, in the right conditions it is a paradise, with year-round whales plus sea otters, wolves and of course bears. Add the many phenomenal beaches, and I rank it among the best paddling locations on the BC coast.

Day trips from a kayak may be the easiest way to enjoy the North Coast Trail, but it comes at the cost of never actually completing it – or at least not in the honest sense. And that’s an achievement to last a lifetime. So paddlers can look at the North Coast Trail as a way to improve a kayaking trip. But hikers will find no comparison for the extra effort of slogging it unaided.

Fortunately either way it is a world-class destination.
Copyright Wild Coast Magazine 2008

Download the PDF version of this article and the North Coast Trail by Paddle article here.

Explore the other North Coast Trail pages:



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			Wild Coast Magazine's North Coast Trail pages Which is better: The North Coast Trail versus the West Coast Trail Wild Coast Magazine, Spring 2008 Download the PDF version of this article and the North Coast Trail by Paddle article here. Many people are predicting the North Coast Trail will rival the West Coast Trail as the best hike on the BC coast. Many are predicting it will be better. So how does it compare? Scenery: Both trails offer different but compelling views of a rugged and wild terrain. A slight thumbs up to the North Coast Trail for the better selection of sprawling sand beaches; a slight thumbs up to the West Coast Trail for the scene-setting roar of surf and greater diversity of features. Difficulty: Say what you will about the trail aids on the West Coast Trail, you’ll likely appreciate them once you hit the more difficult sections of the North Coast Trail. The many steep slopes and scrambles will be highly demanding for people wearing full packs. Consider the North Coast Trail about as raw as you can get. Time: Both trails are comparable, with the normal time to complete the West Coast Trail about five days. For those who have already done the West Coast Trail, plan for an extra day to finish the North Coast Trail. Overall appeal: The isolation and exotic nature of the North Coast Trail give it the slight edge. Other advantages are no crowds and no reservation system. The tradeoff is a wild and difficult trek. You won’t have patrols or emergency evacuation points. Be warned the North Coast Trail is now what the West Coast Trail was 20 to 30 years ago – that being a destination best suited to the most hardy and independent hikers. Expect a trip at the limits of the physical demands of most visitors. For those who finish it, expect to prefer it to the West Coast Trail – once the wounds heal. Bonus article: Not included in the magazine version: By paddle or by foot? Kayaking has the obvious advantage of the ability to stow more gear while requiring you to carry less weight when hiking. The trick is getting there. If the wind goes against you going up Goletas Channel (which is likely), it may take days to paddle to the trailhead from Port Hardy. I’ve hunkered down many times along this stretch of coast waiting for a break in the wind. Travel early before the day’s wind rises, and make contingencies to be off the water to avoid the worst as it grows throughout the day. The problem is camping pullouts are few and far between west of Songhees Creek to Shushartie Bay. A water taxi to Shushartie Bay would be a real time-saver to ensure you get to see the best of the coast. The Tatnall Reefs west of Jepther Point present another obstacle. Strong currents combined with wind waves can mean tumultuous conditions. It pays to wait for slack tide to cross this stretch. Once west of Cape Sutil you are in exposed coastal waters. This can mean swell and surf. With numerous offshore rocks and reefs, conditions can be dangerous. Waves can break unexpectedly on these, a situation that could be fatal. Otherwise, in the right conditions it is a paradise, with year-round whales plus sea otters, wolves and of course bears. Add the many phenomenal beaches, and I rank it among the best paddling locations on the BC coast. Day trips from a kayak may be the easiest way to enjoy the North Coast Trail, but it comes at the cost of never actually completing it – or at least not in the honest sense. And that’s an achievement to last a lifetime. So paddlers can look at the North Coast Trail as a way to improve a kayaking trip. But hikers will find no comparison for the extra effort of slogging it unaided. Fortunately either way it is a world-class destination. Copyright Wild Coast Magazine 2008 Download the PDF version of this article and the North Coast Trail by Paddle article here. Explore the other North Coast Trail pages:



			Select another article by activity:	Select another article by location:

Which is better:

The North Coast Trail versus the West Coast Trail