The pop-up map is an adaptation of a map from the BC Coastal Recreation Kayaking and Small Boat Atlas, Vol. 1.

Discovery Islands and Desolation Sound:

Capt. George Vancouver may have named Desolation Sound in disappointment for what he found here, but the name has become ironically appealing. A poetic interpretation applies: a place that is rugged, grand, imposing and wildly beautiful. This impression has become a magnet for boaters and kayakers alike, who are drawn to the warm and scenic waters.

Quadra is the largest of the Discovery Islands, a varied geographical grouping that includes the East and West Thurlow Islands, Sonora, Maurelle, Read, the Rendezvous Islands, Cortes, Stuart and East and West Redonda Islands.

These are working islands. Logging, fish farming, commercial harvesting, fishing, resorts – it is not entirely wilderness out there. Logging is ubiquitous. With the current political wisdom favouring smaller cutblocks, the mountainsides are turning into quiltworks of differing tree ages. In many areas, especially the north Discovery Islands, people earning a living fishing, logging or fish farming will outnumber tourists.

Hurdles to exploring this region by boat or kayak are the rapids. A few are quite famous, others are rarely heard of. Seymour Narrows lies on the main route through the region, and must be passed daily by freighters, barges, cruise ships and log booms despite currents of up to 16 knots. Surge Narrows has become an attraction in its own right, particularly of late among kayakers. Yaculta Rapids, Dent Rapids and Arran Rapids guard the resort haven of Big Bay on Stuart Island. And yet more rapids block the north end of Okisollo Channel.

Most exploration tends to focus on the south end of Quadra Island and its nearby islands, with Heriot Bay on Quadra a staging ground, especially for day trips. Okisollo and Cordero channels are used mainly by boaters transiting through the area looking for an alternative to Seymour Narrows. What they will find is some incredible scenery in Cordero Channel and Bute Inlet, quaint island groups and narrow, meandering wilderness passages. For a few who are passing through, it will be enough to make them linger.

A difficulty exploring this region by anything other than boat is travel limitations. Only Quadra Island and Cortes Island can be reached by ferry. Once there, you will find enticing provincial parks and camping areas, a scattering of resorts of various styles and a selection of bed and breakfasts. This is an area for wilderness lovers, who should be drawn to locations such as the trails to Carrington Bay and Ha'thayim Marine Provincial Park on Cortes Island. Indeed, the whole island is criss-crossed by trails. But certainly visitors by boat or paddle will get the most fulfilling look at this region - rapids nothwithstanding.

- With excerpt from The Wild Coast, Volume 3, by John Kimantas, Whitecap, 2007

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Recommended places to explore:

Hiking: Cortes Island is a maze of trails, with significant recent developments. Consider the trails from Squirrel Cove to Von Donop Inlet..

Kayaking: Desolation Sound is the magnet, but explore farther afield. Consider Homfray Channel to Toba Inlet.

See The Wild Coast, Volume 3, page 315, for a complete list of recommended kayaking options.